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Sunday, August 19, 2012

Countdown to China

I spent the first half of yesterday waiting in vain at a bicycle shop for a new front fork I had ordered that was supposed to come in last Friday, but had been delayed until Tuesday, the day of my departure, for unknown reasons. I gave up at about 1:30, when Mingyu arrived at the bus terminal, where we had lunch and then headed for the subway, which turned out to be an above-ground light rail. The escalators were blocked and the stairs were too frightening, so we wound up wheeling our loaded bikes through a department store, taking the elevator, and then heading over the walkway to the light rail station. The attendant let us ride for free, even though technically bikes aren't allowed on weekdays, and on weekends it's actually only folding ones that are permitted, not behemoths stocked with 30kg each of bags. On the way, we had a nice chat with some fellows from Myanmar who had come to Korea to work in factories. They say Myanmar is a great country for cycling, but that the roads are “not smooth…definitely not smooth.”

We arrived at the end of the subway line at 3PM, which was the time we had set for ourselves to arrive at the port. Whoops. A 30 minute mad dash ensued as we rode around searching for the right port, Mingyu riding his fully loaded bike for the first time, me hoping nothing would fall out of my backpack and cause an accident. Finally we made it, got our tickets without incident, and said goodbye to Mingyu's parents, who had met us at the port with chocolate bars to hold us over on the 17-hour ferry trip to china.

We had a bit of a scuffle at the security checkpoint - I willingly gave up my leftover camping gas before we got in line, but I didn't realize they'd want to steal our cans of pressurized chain lube spray and our pocket knives. After sending our stuff through the x-ray machines, they took Mingyu's stuff, then told me to get mine out, too. I gave them my chain oil and a sweeeeeeeeeet retracting pocket knife that I had agonized over before buying for $20, since I thought I might be just as well off with a cheapie from the dollar store. I figured it would be no use hiding anything from them, though, so I winced and handed over my Leatherman as well. Thankfully, the security fellow had never seen such a contraption; he opened it up, unfolded the pliers, and said “nah, that's ok” and gave it back! What a great moment. I felt emboldened and declined to mention that I had a third knife, a small blade in my bike-fixing ultra tool.

Still, regretting the loss of the pocket knife and our other gear, I asked the staff if there was any way we could send the stuff via post to Mingyu's parents so they could send it to us later. Rather than answering yes or no, the guy, apparently intrigued, asked “Oh, do they do that in America? We don't do that here. I thought you guys were the strict ones?” I told him that I had seen it happen before, and he melted like butter in front of my Korean skills, saying, “Well, I can see that you're here with your bicycles, so I suppose you have a good reason to have this stuff. You can take the oil, but you know there's no way I can let you on board with knives.” I thanked him profusely, in my own fluent-but-awkward way, and he caved even further, offering to set the knives aside so that we'll be able to pick them up once we de-boat in Dalian. It's hard to believe, but that may go down as the last time in my life that my Korean will ever garner me a freebie.

That's because when I wake up, I'll be in China.

So it begins.

Saturday, August 18, 2012

We're On A Boat.

And we're off! Hardly a few hours into the trip and Mingyu and I have already begun working on our begging prowess. We gave all our remaining Korean money to his parents at the port (in exchange for chocolate bars), Mingyu expecting the ship restaurant to accept Chinese Yuan, me not thinking at all. Bad move! We missed dinner time in the cafeteria, then found out that the convenience store would only accept Korean Won. We were thus reduced to scrounging around in our pockets and the deep recesses of our panniers for whatever Korean coinage we could muster. It turned out to be 2,800 Won enough to buy us a can of beer (1,500) and a bag of onion rings (originally 1,500, marked down to 1,300 because of my pathetic whining). Lack of funds to buy cup ramen also forced me to cook us our first meal of the trip: couscous, raisins, and Thai seasoning, along with a slice of pumpernickel bread. I was slightly unhappy at the thought of using precious camping ingredients, but then again, I have no idea when or whether we'll have to camp, and I'm all for lightening my panniers, which I'm guessing come in at about 30-32 kg. Anyway, now that I'm fed and mellowed, I'll try to go back to the beginning.


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I spent the days leading up to my departure mostly in three states. The first was a sort of mad, though perhaps understandably so, obsession with my panniers and equipment. What goes in what bag? What's the optimal distribution for weight? How about for ease of access to the most important and frequently used things? How about for remembering where everything is? On the one hand, I think it's good to put some thought into this stuff, but on the other, I fully expect everything to change within the next few weeks as I finally let experience take over imagination and nerves. It'll all work itself out.

The second state was a sort of misery, or as others call it, “shopping”. I still needed a few odds and ends for the trip, but buying almost anything at all (other than food) throws me into a pretty dark place . Part of me wants to buy the best thing available, for example, a pair of shoes that will be comfortable, durable, water-proof, and odor-free for the duration of the trip. But my immediate counter-reaction is to think of the environmental costs of the products in particular and in our culture's addiction to early obsolescence and new purchases before their time. In fact, I already had two pairs of shoes - one set of Merrell mesh sneakers that have served me well for almost four years, though now the soles have slightly detached from the rest of the shoe and have been glued back in place, and one pair of imitation crocs with fantastic ventilation. The soft rubber bottoms have been chewed apart by my bike pedals, though, meaning that soon enough my foot will touch metal when I ride. Not ideal.

So, I always ask myself at what point it becomes acceptable to buy something new and throw out something old but usable. If I wait until I truly need new shoes, I may be in the middle of China with no source of nice new Merrell sandals. Then again, how much of my feeling of need is due to real need, and how much is attributable to advertisements, and how much is attributable to nerves? Paralyzing as they are, I would rather have these thoughts than not - I recently read a great post on my current second favorite blog, Mr. Money Moustache explaining his idea that these little agonizing voices, while frustrating at times, are actually to be thanks for pushing us towards better lifestyles - but it's interesting that rather than actually resolving anything, they simply give me enough hesitation and dread regarding shopping that I put it off way longer than others would. I have a feeling that, in the long run, this attitude keeps me buying less and thereby doing less harm to the environment. I don't think I've suffered too much for it so far. Indeed, I believe this kind of thinking is largely to thank for the financial freedom that's going to allow me to spend a year or more on my bike.

Long story short, I eventually caved and bought a fake wallet, some spare bike parts, new shoes, a pocket knife, a water bottle, some tupperware, bandaids, a water bottle, and other odds and ends.

The final state was one of overwhelming warmth during and after each of my twenty or so goodbye gatherings. Dinners with the Park family, the Lee family, the Jo family, and the other Lee family; lunch with the lady who runs the neighborhood art shop; drinks with the people who run the Council for Local Agenda 21, the environmental group behind the Daegu bike festival; a potluck with friends from the Green Consumers Network; conversation practice and karaoke with folks from the Free Korean Class; and of course trips to the beach and karaoke with my most recent , and closest, cohort of foreign friends. And that was just in Daegu! In Seoul I managed to meet one old friend and watch him play backup guitar at a modern dance exhibit; the next day I met an old coworker and had a giant lunch along with two varieties of wine, then met old Korean friends I knew from Sadhana for a nice dinner and another bowl of wine, this time spiked with ground pine needle powder. The next afternoon, it was lunch and dessert with another old friend, then a ride across town to bike shop where I would meet Mingyu the following day.

I don't know what to say about the goodbyes except that they were awesome. I hadn't quite realized how deeply involved I had become in Korean life, though I suppose that after six years of coming and going, maybe it's to be expected. I feel incredibly lucky to have so many friends here, from so many walks of life, all wishing me well and sending me off either with a gift, a full stomach, a full wallet, or just a hug. 한국 친구들아! 생각 자주자주 떠오를 거예요!

















Friday, August 17, 2012

The First Post from the Road!

I'm experiencing some blogging issues because apparently the "Great Firewall of China" blocks access to Blogspot, in addition to Facebook, Youtube and numerous other sites.  There's a workaround that allows me to make posts by sending emails to myself, but I can't do much with the layout, so for the moment I'm lying low.  Mingyu,on the other hand, has already managed to crank out a post.  Have a look at where we are, what we've been eating and drinking, and what I allowed him to do to my hair...

중국에서 폐북과 유트브를 막았을 뿐만 아니라 나의 구글 블로그도 막았어요.  간접적으로 글을 올리는 방법이 있지만 예쁘게는 못하겠어요, 아직.  일단 밍규리의 첫 포스트를 보세요!  어차피 그는 나보다 사진을 훨씬 잘 찍습니다.  그는 항상 사진기 덕분이라고 하는데 사실 꽤 잘 직다러고요.  암튼.우리 위치와 우리가 먹고 마시는 것, 그리고 민규가 내 머리를 어떻게 했는지 한 번 보실래요?

http://mingyulee.tistory.com/111

Monday, August 13, 2012

Goodbye, Facebook! 폐북아 안녕!

I've heard that it's not so easy to use Facebook in China.
중국에서 페북을 쓰는 것이 어렵다고 들었습니다.

So if you'd like to follow my exploits, check this very blog.
나의 공훈들을 따르려면, 이 블로그에 자주 방문하시는 것이 좋을 겁니다.

There are about four different ways to subscribe down at the bottom.
제일 아래쪽에 약 4개의 가입할 방법이 있습니다.

And, every time I write a post, it should be automatically uploaded to Facebook.
그리고 내가 글을 올릴 때마다 페북에도 자동으로 올려 주는 프로그램을 설치했어요.

But, since I won't be able to check Facebook often, please leave your "likes" and comments here on the blog itself!
하지만 난 페북확인을 많이 못할 것 같으니까, "좋아요"와 댓글 여시서 직접 써 주시길.

Please check often and share the blog and keep in touch!
자주 확인 해주시고 블로그를 공유해 주시고 연락을 자주 주세요!

And, if you want to hear and see Mingyu's perspective, check his blog too!
그리고 밍규리의 입장을 보고 듣고 싶다면, 그의 블로그도 방문하시면 돼요.

http://mingyulee.tistory.com/

Mingyu's pretty good at Korean.
밍규는 한국어를 상당히 잘 하더라.

I love you all!  Wish me luck!
모두 다를 사랑합니다.  응원해 주세요!

Tuesday, August 07, 2012

Seventeen Years Ago Today

For some reason today I feel like I'm eleven and in Greenfield. 

Maybe it's the way the wind is blowing at me no matter which direction I go in.

Or the way the sun is beating down relentlessly but I'm not breaking a sweat.

Or the way there's not a cloud in the sky.

Accordingly, I feel I ought to watch my step, lest I step on a plum that's fallen from one of the trees in my best friends' back yard.

Then again, it's a good excuse to play with the hose. 

Apricots are also messy, but one need not really worry about the apples. 

For lunch it's a cheese sandwich and a can of A&W and for dinner if we're lucky one of the adults will make garlic bread. 

The good old days.